Uruguay: A Day Trip to Colonia from Buenos Aires
Uruguay is not likely a country on many bucket lists, but is a worthwhile addition to your South American itinerary – and is so physically close to Buenos Aires- a quick hop across the Río de la Plata River – that it would be a shame to not tack on at least a day trip to Uruguay.
Navigating the Ferry System
A ferry system connects Buenos Aires to the cities of Colonia del Sacramento and Montevideo in Uruguay. Both fast and slow ferries exist; tickets are cheap enough that for the average traveler, the fast ferry is well worth the extra pesos. From most to from most to least expensive, your ferry options to Colonia del Sacramento are Buquebus, Seacat, and Colonia Express. We used the Boquebus “fast ferry” which had the best time options, connecting Buenos Aires to Colonia in a little over an hour, and Montevideo in a little over 2 hours (2 hours, 12 minutes to be exact). The beauty of taking a ferry, rather than flying, is that you arrive right in city center, ready to sight-see, with no need for additional public transportation. There is also a bus-ferry combination option, which brings you to Colonia by ferry and then you can travel on to Montevideo by bus (bus tickets can also be purchased separately for about $10 USD). Book your ticket in advance through their online reservation system, to avoid having to stand in line at the crowded ferry terminal.
Boquebus departs several times a day from Puerto Madero in Buenos Aires, with the earliest ferry to Colonia departing at 8:15 am. At check in, arrive at least 60 to 90 minutes early as you will need to get your passport stamped and clear customs before boarding the ferry. You will get an exit stamp for Argentina and an entrance stamp for Uruguay at customs booths that sit right next to each other – make sure to get both, and you will do the same when you depart Uruguay. There is security screening, though it is a bit less rigorous than the airport. You will see lots of really, really long lines so just be sure you are in the correct line for your ferry. We splurged a whole extra $10 to upgrade to business class seats, which put us in a much less crowded cabin with expedited boarding (less stress, since we didn’t feel obligated to duke it out for the front of the line for boarding) and included free champagne – why not, right?! Otherwise, I would either sit on the second floor for views, or as near the exit on the bottom level as possible so that you can be first off the boat.
On arrival, exit the ferry and you will head left to the center of Colonia, about a 15 minute walk. Don’t forget: different country, different currency. We opted not to exchange money; the few places we spent money (lunch, and the obligatory gelato) took credit cards, so we didn’t need Uruguayan pesos. You may find $USD are accepted in some places also. For Montevideo, Uber is also an option for getting around without having to change money.
Colonia del Sacramento
Colonia is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a lovely way to spend a relaxing day. The beauty of Colonia is just strolling and taking it all in. Highlights include strolling the Calle de los Suspiros, visiting the fortress and the lighthouse, and just wandering. The vintage cars and stray dogs add ambiance to the beautiful tree lined streets. We topped it off with a leisurely seafood lunch at Charco bistró, paired with Uruguayan wine (which, of course, you must try!). While cattle are commonly found in Uruguay (there is a large museum in Montevideo dedicated to the Uruguayan goucho), we found a lot more seafood offered in Colonia’s restaurants.
Consider an Overnight
If you have time, consider an overnight in Colonia. I would recommend take a morning ferry to Colonia, and enjoy a day and a night there. Take a morning bus the following day to Montevideo (2:45 to 3 hours, multiple departures per day starting as early as 6 am), and spend your second day sightseeing in Montevideo. Perhaps take a guided tour of the city to learn a bit about Uruguay’s history and very relaxed culture, and maybe even tack on a visit to the nearby Bouza Winery (which also boasts a classic car collection). From Montevideo, take a 7:30 pm evening ferry back to Buenos Aires (2 hrs 12 min). To travel light, leave your luggage in storage at your Buenos Aires hotel and just take a small backpack with your overnight essentials.
Good to Know: Similar to Argentina, Uruguay does not require a visa for travelers from the US visiting for less than 90 days – just don’t forget to bring your passport to the immigration desk at the ferry port for your entrance and exit stamps. Health recommendations from the CDC are also identical to Argentina (make sure standard routine vaccinations are up to date, and both typhoid and hepatitis A are recommended).
For more on planning your trip to Argentina, check out our prior Argentina post for a sample 12 day itinerary and travel tips!